When is a good time to practice?

Answer: In the morning when there is no wind, less people and also shoot for medium incoming tide  if you can. Look for wave size that is 2-3 ft to start with.

 

In the Bay Area, especially in the summer months the wind picks up really high during the afternoon (starting around noon and get really high around 2 - 3 p.m.). High wind is good for Windsurfing but not for beginner or even most surfing. Since the summer wind usually blows from the ocean towards the land (onshore condition), that is considered a not good condition by many. This onshore condition occurs in the summer because of a very high temperature gradient that exists between the coast side and the inland area. Anyone driven from San Francisco to Tahoe in summer experienced that San Francisco is in the mid 50's when Sacramento is in the 90's or even 100s. Not very many places in the world have this kind of gradient to cause high wind condition, in fact in Livermore's Altamont Pass there are windmills take advantage of it. When the wind is blowing hard, the wind makes the wave to blow off the top making it crashing sooner or otherwise not in a good shape to surf. In addition it creates local chops and wind-swells making it really hard paddle out to the ocean.

 

This seems to be why many people choose to go in the morning when the wind is lower. Also in the morning, the beaches are much less crowded. The "TXT" version of surf report on Pacific Wave Rider Hourly Report  tells you the local sunrise and sunset times. Give it 20 - 30 minutes after that and you are surfing completely in the daylight condition (fog and cloud excluding).

 

Surfing in a less crowded condition means that there is a much less chance of colliding or getting in the way of other folks. Many books and article tells you about the number one surfing etiquette of "not dropping in" which is to mean that you should not start padding when other people are ready to stand up and you do not get in the way of them. As a beginner, you do not even know if you are doing this to other surfers. You will definitely will run into this situation and being yelled at so be prepared, and if this happens just apologize and go on, but when you are learning, avoid getting into the group of other "good" surfers until you are more confident in control of your board.

 

Each beach has its own characteristics and nothing can really be said for sure, because the bottom shape changes continuously especially on sandy beach like we have in San Mateo county.  But in general beach breaks tend to break softer on medium to high tides. Look in my home page and you will notice that there are two low tide periods on the Pacific ocean, one is usually lower than the other. Surfing prediction is a very difficult task, and it is a problem finding an optimized point on a 7th dimension equations among Wind, Swell height, period, directions, tide, bottom shape.

 

If you are surfing in Linda Mar as a new surfer, try surfing to the "south" end of the beach closer to the (boat) houses. Waves tend to be gentler. If you are in the Jetty in HMB, do not try to go too close to the jetty side. There are a lot of rocks underneath and also waves can pick up very high suddenly (a mini version of what happens at the "The Wedge" in Newport Beach Pier). Watch the breaking pattern for good 5 -10 minutes before you start paddling and find the location that suit your ability. Paddle out from the area with the least breaking activity (deeper spots, officially called a channel). These spots tend to have out-going rip tides giving you a "free" ride out (which can be scarily and often can be dangerous if there is a high surf condition going 5 mph faster than any Olympic swimmers can handle).

 

Don't worry so much about picking days when the surf forecasts are saying "fair" conditions unless the waves are poor or closed but when swells are really big.  First of all surf forecasts are based on computer models that cannot accurately determine the waves. Also the term "fair" seem to apply mainly to intermediate to advanced folks. Any days that the forecast are saying "fair" condition with low wind with wave faces 2-3 ft will be good days for us. You may have some problems when faces are bigger than 4, 5 ft or above especially when you are trying to paddle out. High swell condition may be one disadvantage of having a big board when you are not fit enough. But then I have seen people with longer board having no problems getting out. So some skills are involved here as well. When the condition indicates a "closed out" this means that the conditions are really poor with waves all coming in fully across the entire beach and waves crashing all at once giving you no room to get out, and surf in straight. So this is bad for pretty much everyone across the skill sets.

 

As with any form of forecasts, forecasts are not 100% accurate and also wave conditions change by the hour.  So you do often need to possibly "waste" your time going all the way out to the beach to only find out the condition is not good. I have certainly had excellent practices when the forecasts are saying "1-2 ft" poor condition situations. This comes with the territory. You just have to swallow it and have an alternative plan handy. But as wind and tide changes the condition changes within the same day, so just because it was poor in the AM does not mean it is poor all day. If you get a chance check back in 3 to 6 hours or so. 

 

Also pay attention to the direction of North and South swells from the forecasts and relate your experience with the directions. Essentially, there are two main sources of wave energy on the Pacific. One is coming from Alaska or further north from us and another is coming from further South of us such as Mexico. However, the North component can move sufficiently South causing completely westerly swells. After a while you will find out that the Tide Chart, Sun Rise and Sun Set times, Wind direction and strength reported will be invaluable in picking the best time and location to practice your surfing skills. It is typically said that during the spring and summer months the South swells work better and during the fall and winter months, the North swells work better. There certainly will be straight West wave days too.

 

Some words of caution. It is said that shark attacks are recorded more during dawn and dusk hours. It is also said that chance of you getting injured or killed driving to and from surfing spots are significantly higher then the chance of sharks finding you.

 

You already know that you need to have a leash and wet suit. I also highly recommend you get as much protection as you can afford, including a Gath Helmet , a pair of gloves and booties. Many experts would tell you don't need gloves or booties or whatever, and I agree they do not. But while you are learning, you would run into all sorts of hazards like landing on rocks, fins or pars of board brushing against various parts of your body and other surfers as you execute your wipeouts. You will get several minor bruises during this phase and hopefully you don't get a cutting wound. The protective stuffs are relatively inexpensive to get and will last for quite some time, compared to several hundred $s of co-payments (if you have an insurance) after a visit to a medical center. Damages and injuries also can happen from other people colliding you or cutting in to your line. If you had a helmet on and did not get your head sliced, you'd be very happy of having made the $120 investment in the Gath helmet and looking a bit dorky. It is your choice, look cool or be safe and stay in the water a lot longer!

 

Back to tides and currents, you should make sure to look at some stationary objects such as houses, buildings, trees, Taco Bell, or rocks in front, left and right of you so that you know how far you have been drifted by currents and winds. Paddle a little bit from time to time to stay roughly in the same area unless you know you are changing the spot. Typically there is a moderate side-shore current near the beach and you would drift left or right over time. For example, one time I paddled out near the Taco Bell (in Linda Mar, of course) and sitting in the line up, and the next thing I knew I was in front of the lone Cypress Tree near the Crespi intersection.

 

Another very important safety tip not usually written anywhere is this. Under any circumstances do not let your board positioned in front of you so the board is sandwiched  between Hawaii and your precious body. Even a relatively small crushing break can not only knock you over, it can hit your nose, teeth, face or other parts of your body causing great pain or injury if it hits you in a bad spot. If you see that you board is right in front of you and you are looking at the horizon, quickly move the board behind you, duck under and swim away from it or at least to the side of you. Be especially careful after you wipe out. If you do not know where your board is, stay under for a bit. Also never look away from the ocean. A big swell can come anytime, or comes one after another. I have been knocked out a few times by this. This applies even when you are picking up a floating board at the shore. Approach it from the "back" or it will jump and bite you.

 

Now is a good time to take your video or photo while you are learning. You will never be able to do a repeat performance of  yourself  how awkward you were looking back. Something to show to your friends or TV crew after you become a part of a pro surfing team.

 

Where should I practice?

 

Best advise: Don't go completely on your own, but go to somewhere at least some people are around. Also I personally suggest that don't go with your "hot" short board friends either. Teaching surfing and being a "good" surfer often do not seem to mix. Your friend can become frustrated with you and won't go out again with you. They would not set a foot in a beginner break, nor have a clue how to help you get started from your stand-point.  Instead, take a professional lesson or two, preferably in Santa Cruz where the wave is much easier to ride than anywhere near HMB.  You can ride on a board for 20 or even 30 seconds on your first day out at Cowells beach SC and by doing this, you'd be saving at least 4-20 days (possibly more) of your own time if you were to do this totally on your own (like I did). Get better at surfing, catch every surf-able swell,  and surprise your friends who would be waiting 20 minutes for a good wave on their 6'4s. 

 

I have taken out several people to SC with a class and almost all of them get a taste of padding out, in and standing on the same day. Once you get a taste of this then you are at a point that you can self practice.

 

If HMB/ Pacifica are the only options you have, then try the south side of Linda Mar on a low day (1, 2, 3 ft wave faces with no winds and low  to medium tide) early in the morning or 2 hours before the sun set, or try the Half Moon Bay jetty.